tip #50, make an artifact

My Hillary quilt top was packed up in 2016 in preparation for our move. This week I decided it needed to be finished as an artifact of that time.
For anyone who argues that politics do not belong in quiltmaking, I strongly disagree.
Throughout quilting history quiltmakers have expressed political opinions in their work. The topics of the day remain as artifacts of our quilting language: Burgoyne Surrounded, 54-40 or Fight, Tippecanoe and Tyler Too, Amethyst, Kansas Troubles.
The impeachment hearings are making me anxious and my way of dealing with that is handwork.
Are you a Donald Trump supporter? Let your descendants know by making a T quilt.
As for me, I am at work on an Impeachment quilt.

tip #49, don't cut out everything

steps

In preparation for fall semester, while finishing up several quilt tops I cut out some projects to sew once school starts.
I am pretty sure how big each quilt will be and how many blocks will be needed, but I don't cut them all out, mainly to wait until after making a bunch of blocks to see what other colors/values/scales are needed. Also to have space for some new fabrics that may come my way while making the top.
I like to save room for about 20%.

whirlygig

cobbles

tip #48, make some samples

I am often sketching on graph paper or any paper for that matter. I am pretty good at visualizing what the block will look like, but the move to fabric can lead to decisions on scale and orientation that don't come to mind on paper.
In preparation for fall I would like to have a plan and blocks cut to fit in sewing time between the busy semester of classes. This morning I moved these 6 blocks from paper to fabric. Now, which to move forward on first?

cobblestone

steps

framed whirlygig

whirlygig

bullseye

pickets

tip # 47, trim triangles for floating sets

When making on-point set quilts I prefer a float.
The triangles are cut over-sized  To make sure I do not distort the triangle along the bias when sewing it into the row, I trim the triangle on the side that will be sewn to the block.
Here you can see I measured the side of the triangle to 8 1/2 inches, the unfinished size of my basket block. The nub that is cut off is circled.

To lessen distortion with the bias:
1. Sew with the triangle on the bottom again to lessen distortion to the bias.
2. Start from the 90 degree angle and sew to where the nub was cut off, in this case, from the bottom of the basket block towards the top of the basket block.
NOTE: on at least one of the sides of the quilt you will have to make a choice as these two steps will not both be possible!

tip #46, make and use a master block

When starting multi-block quilts I make about 6 blocks to work out my piecing and pressing decisions, making assembly of blocks, and, later, the top easier. I may try several different sequences before settling on one.
Sometimes the logical piecing/pressing sequence is not the optimal, so I like to sort this out early. Because, once I've made a dozen or so blocks I know I'm not going to go back and re-do them.

Once I figure out my block piecing and pressing sequence I commit. I choose a higher-contrast block as my master block. It is used from then on as a reference for the rest of the block making. I place pieces on the reverse of the block itself to keep me consistent.
In nursing I teach my students to hold the medication package right next to the printed words on the screen/paper to compare and ensure the correct medication is given as our minds play tricks on us and we will read what we think is there and not what is really there.
The same phenomena happens with piecing. We think we have it in the same direction as earlier blocks when we do not.
By having my pieces placed over the master block, I keep my consistency when piecing and pressing.

In these basket blocks I pieced them into quarters. Then placed the quarters over the master block again.
You will see that the final seam is not pressed. In my planning I found that seam would be pressed different directions in alternate rows, so my master block again reminded me to not press that seam.

I try to honor this work-horse block by putting it in a good place in the quilt! This delightful fern block will be the bottom left block.

tip #45, cut reverse side of fabric

I usually cut on the right side of the fabric so I can enjoy it while I work with it.
There are times though, to flip the fabric to the reverse for cutting.
It is easier to see green and purple fabrics when they are lighter as they are on the reverse. Also, when cutting down uneven edged garment making scraps, the grain lines are more evident on the reverse.

tip # 44, buy the new tool

I am happy with how I cut with the tools I have.
But, it is good to be open to innovations. Some can make my job so much more pleasant.
Also, with aging, I find my eyes work better with different brands than I have been using. The only way to know is to try them out. For a period of time, not just for a cut or two. All tools feel clunky at first because they are different from our usual working. However, forcing myself to use them for a day or two can show me if I can increase my accuracy or make the job simpler.
Sticker price is high on some of them, but, face it. Most of us can do a month or two with no fabric purchases and put that money into trying a new tool.
I have links directly to Bonnie's and Doug's sites. I want to support these innovators.

This past year I have purchased several new tools.

Bonnie Hunter's Essential Triangle Tool
https://quiltville.com/shop.html#!/Bonnie-K-Hunters-Essential-Triangle-Tool-List-$24-95/p/69971252/category=14176326
Replaces: traditional cutting with 7/8" or 1 1/4" added to strip, or the EZ angle and the Companion Angle
What I like: The quarter and half square triangles are on one tool.
Learning curve: You place the ruler at a different orientation than the EZ angle, but once that rhythm sets it it works. The color of the lines is unexpected, and work for me.
Verdict: I still use the EZ Angle and their Companion angles at times, but Bonnie's triangle tool is my go-to ruler most days.

Doug Leko's Simple Folded Corners Ruler
https://antlerquiltdesign.com/products/simple-folded-corners-ruler
Replaces:There are so many methods for making flip and sew corners and I have used them all effectively.
What I like: I like to cut then sew, not sew then cut so this works very well for that preference. It is more efficient for me moving to the next step rather than going back to trim.
I also like how the ruler size stabilizes the piece while making the cut.
Learning curve: I made one miss-cut before I got used to the placement lines
Verdict: When I heard of Doug's innovation I did not see it to be needed, but upon recommendations from others and with working on two quilts using this technique, I decided to try it. I love it. I sew up the waste triangles right away. I could trim them into exact sizes but for now am putting them into a free-form style piece so I am not doing any squaring up. Let's see how that goes!

KAI scissors 5045 rotary cutter
https://kaiscissors.com/kai-5045-rotary-cutter-45mm/
Replaces: Olfa cutter
What I like: Feels different in my hand. Great blades.
Learning curve: No lock so I have to be careful not to drop it. Has adjustable pressure to engage the blade.
Verdict: I am not throwing away my Olfas, but I do find I reach for the KAI more and more often. A good addition to my table.

Large squares
I own several squares and can use any one of which to cut down a piece or block but, in trimming down my hourglass blocks (A job I really hate to do), it was easier to purchase a new 8 inch square ruler than to keep rotating the blocks. I can center it on the block and make all four cuts.
Replaces: larger squares where I would have to rotate the block to make the third and fourth cuts
What I like: I can see right away if the block is square and that I have room to trim on all sides.
Verdict: This is the hardest purchase to justify but makes life so much easier. I have bought 4 and 6 inch squares for squaring up crumb piecing or string piecing. Even though it is hard to make these purchases, every time it has been worth it.

tip #43, take in a handful of scraps

Even though I am trying to get rid of much, I do continue to accept scrap offers from my friends. I am not committing to purchasing the minimum fat quarter and still get the benefit of bits of great fabrics.
I try to limit it to just a handful. Cutting them down and adding them to my scraps adds depth to what I have to work with.
Here is a delightful mix from my friend Donna this past week.

tip #42, bundle your project for storage and travel

In preparing my projects for taking to the longarm quilter, I protect what is most fragile--the raw seams and the edges. (I always stay-stitch the edges of the top.)
I fold the top and the back with the right sides out, folding to keep the edges within the bundle.
I stack the top and back, and tie up the whole thing loosely with a length of selvedge.
This keeps it all tidy on the shelf and on the trip.

My longarm quilter and I unbundle and decide on the quilting plan. She stores them on hangers until they come up in her queue.

tip #41, make the sleeve and label while making the back

I am in backing production here, readying five tops for the longarm quilter.

One thing that trips me up when I receive a quilt back from my longarm quilter is all that is involved before attaching the binding.
-choose the fabrics for binding and sleeve
-make the binding
-make the sleeve
-make the label
I often make the bindings ahead of time, but just recently included making the sleeves and label at the same time as the back. I no longer have to hunt down the leftover or coordinating sleeve material.

I just finished piecing three backs and made the label and sleeve to set aside.
I pinned a piece of paper to each to remind me what goes with what.
The sleeves are hemmed on the edges and pressed and ready to go. If I find the quilt shrunk up a lot when quilted I can trim the sleeve down and quickly re-hem

tip # 40--add a bow

Although I enjoy wrapping presents, some packaging is too lovely to cover up so I just add a bow.

tip # 39, photograph tops to find block errors

I occasionally find a block error only when looking at a photograph of the top.
The recent double four-patch quilt is an example of this. I made the top, admired it laid out on the floor, photographed it and posted it. Then after several days, I looked at the posted photograph again and noticed one four-patch was not in line. It amazes me that in the construction of the block and pressing it, in placing it in the layout, and in the time of looking at the top, I never caught it.
This isn't the first time this has happened. Errors are more noticeable, popping out, in photographs.
When we see the "humility blocks" in old quilts, I do believe most were unintentional.
I did fix this one--it was detracting from what this quilt was about. In another I might have left it alone. Sometimes the error elevates the quilt!

tip #38--simplify your labels

As we do the big sort I am contemplating re-homing quilts.
The kids do not want them all and I do want to give some to friends.
A few years ago I started simplifying my labels.
It is really hard to give away a quilt that has "for my darling daughter on her 14th birthday" written on the back. The recipient may think I decided my daughter was not so darling after all.

So, now it is just my name and Chicago and the year.
No baggage of sentiment.

tip #37--go negative

I have to be careful with this post. No pictures are included.
We usually look at quilts and think, "I like that. That one too."
Take a bit of time to "go negative".
What is it about the quilt that you don't like.
This is TOTALLY subjective.
It doesn't mean it is a bad quilt, it just means I would make different choices in making it.
This helps me define my own style.

A quick look at quilts with this mindset shows my aesthetic is irritated by:
-scale that is just a bit too big
-strong checkerboard effects in scrap quilts (hard to define this one, but I know it when I see it--when there is too much planning in layout, no seridipity of things falling where they may)
-primary colors
-30's repro quilts with no brown or black in them
-too much repetition of value
-use of one fabric line in a quilt
-odd proportions--table runners irritate me!
-quilts that are "girl" or "boy'--I was more of a unisex dressing mother
-bed quilts to the floor

THEN, after going negative, let it go and appreciate the work of the quilter.
But, know and own your own style!

tip #36--clean your machine bed

The picture shows just one hand (the other was holding the camera), but you see how my wrist and thumb are on the machine bed? Even thought I wash my hands before sitting at the machine (thanks, Mom!*) oils and dust accumulate. Even if you can't see it, you may feel it as drag as you sew.
Wipe it down with a gentle cleanser and a soft cloth.

*Mom made us wash our hands before sewing and before playing the piano.

tip #34--drape the machinery

These recent tips are reflections on my housekeeping skills which are sorely lacking.
I have some lengths of silk habotai 12 momme from some long ago project that I use to drape my Accuquilt Studio. I go through periods of much use of it, followed by it sitting idle. The drape helps keep dust out of the mechanisms.
If away from my sewing machine for a while I also drape it. You can buy dust covers for machines but they look a little crafty to me, and the silk is so much more elegant.

tip #33--keep a lint roller near the iron

Some pieces of fabric love to collect threads and bits.
Keeping a lint roller near the iron makes it easier to lift off those threads. I usually don't roll it, instead just touch it to the threads.
I have an Accuquilt Studio and use it to roll over the die after cutting. I am very methodical, rolling over the entire die. It picks up much you cannot see, stuff that might damage the blades.

I do not use the lint roller on myself. I am easily identified on the street as a quilter by all the threads clinging to me.
(Every Christmas I give a package of lint rollers to the kids as they do not like to be identified as coming from a quilting household.)

tip # 32--weigh down small blocks

Very small blocks tend to curl after pressing.
I press a small stack, then place a ruler on top of them until they cool. They stay flat!

These tiny 3 inch finished blocks are from the Temecula Quilt Co. Circa 2016 sew-a-long.

tip #31--maximizing fabric use when cutting out flying geese

I am cutting out a lot of flying geese shapes for some pinwheel blocks.
I use the Companion Angle for the geese but I start and end the strip with the EZ angle to get a usable patch at the beginning and at the end of my Companion angle cuts. I don't need the half-square triangle for this project, but they are saved and ready to go for another down the road.

tip # 30--spray in the waste basket

I make my labels by cutting a square, folding in in half, and placing the triangle on a lower corner of a quilt just before doing the machine work of binding. I give the prepared triangle a spritz of basting spray to help it stay in place before the machine work on the edges and the hand work across the hypotenuse. I still use a couple of pins, but the spray stabilizes the label.
I put the label in the waste basket to contain the over-spray.

I used to cut a triangle and fold over an edge but found too often the backing fabric would show through too much and there would be an odd place where the fold would block the show-through. The double layer of the label made with a folded square prevents this.

Size of label squares are anywhere from 3 1/2 inches to 8 inches depending on the size of the quilt and how much I want to write.