tutorial: using L sashing, two examples

Cornerstones keep you honest. They help line up blocks when making the field of a sashed quilt. But they also add a visual that I don't always want in a quilt.
When I want to have sashings but NOT cornerstones, I don't like the pinning/easing/moving/instability that happens with long segments of sashings joining rows
My work-around is using L sashings.
I don't know if there is another word for this, but I call it L or 7 as that is the shape it makes around two sides of the block.
*note--the outer blocks may be treated differently as I will explain later.

Measure the block. Decide on a sashing width.
Do the math to make sure you cut the sashings the correct size. complete a sample block before cutting all the sashings.
If an asymmetrical block, put the first sashing on the most irritating side of the block. (I should have done this with the snout side of the dogs but didn't figure this out until I was too far into the quilt.)

Here is an example using my Scottie Dog blocks.
*I decided to have the sashings go all around the field, so some blocks will need to be resolved.
The block finishes 6 inches across and 5 inches down.
Unfinished it is 6 1/2 by 5 1/2 inches.
I used a 1 inch finished sashing, so I cut 1 1/2 inch strips.

I sashed the longer side of rectangle blocks first, so I cut this piece 6 1/2 inches and sewed onto the bottom of the blocks.
Sewn on the block height is now also 6 1/2 inches.
Press towards the sashing
I sash the right side at 6 1/2 inches.
DO NOT press yet.
The sashed block now measures 7 1/2 by 6 1/2 inches, to finish 7 by 6 inches.
See how the sashes make a L or 7 shape?


*I decided to have sashings surround the field so:
I resolved the left blocks with a 6 1/2 inch sashed on the left sides.
I resolved the top blocks with a 7 1/2 inch sashed top sides EXCEPT the top right corner block
I resolved the top right corner block with a top sash of 8 1/2 inches

resolved left side blocks

resolved top row blocks

resolved top corner block

Lay out the quilt and sew into rows or columns I did rows for the dogs. Press sashings to the left or right on alternate rows.
Everything nests.

Now an example with the Teacups.
*I decided NOT to have the sashing go around the field, so I set aside the Right and Top blocks.
The block finishes 5 inches across and 3 inches down.

Unfinished it is 5 1/2 by 3 1/2 inches.
I want to use a 1 inch finished sashing, so I cut1 1/2 inch strips.

This time I remembered to sash the irritating side first, so I cut the initial cup ear sashes 3 1/2 inches. Press to the sash.
Sewn on the block width is now 6 1/2 inches.
I sash the bottom at 6 1/2 inches. DO NOT press yet.
The sashed block now measures 6 1/2 by 4 1/2 inches, to finish 6 by 4 inches.

*Resolving the sides:
I eliminate the side sash of the right edge blocks and just put the lower sash on them (except for the bottom right corner block which remains unsashed). These sashes were cut 5 1/2 inches.
I eliminate the bottom sash on the bottom row and just put the side sash, cut 3 1/2 inches, on all of the lower row blocks (except the bottom right corner block which remained un-sashed). 

Lay out the quilt and sew into rows or columns I did columns for the teacups. Press sashings up or down on alternate columns.
Everything nests. 
Watch for these tops to be completed soon. The semester is ending!

My directions of the concept--use at your pleasure.

pavement, top completed, construction details

Pavement
top completed 2024
90 by 80 inches

block finishes 10 inches
72 blocks set 8 across and 9 down

Block construction HERE
It is a simple block and a good one to use if you are experimenting with this solids + prints concept.

All blocks are made with the same pressing plan.
In layout, every other block is rotated so all seams nest.

Set aside 8 blocks to be the bottom blocks

Sew remaining 64 blocks into 32 pairs, rotating blocks so one is oriented horizontal and one is vertical. These are 2-block units---press away from the horizontal oriented blocks
Sew into 16 4-block units, making sure to sew a horizontal block to a vertical block--press consistent with the previous 

Layout the 4-block units to make two rows of 8 columns, rotating every other unit to nest to the blocks next to each other. Make sure to keep columns consistent in orientation.

Layout remaining 8 blocks to make a 9th row, making sure to orient horizontal or vertical to nest into the blocks above.

I sewed these 9th row blocks to the 4-block units above them, making 5-block units--pressing consistently

Then sewed into two sections, pressing one section east and one west.

Sew together into top, pressing final seam north.
Everything nests!

My directions and design using a traditional block.
Use at your pleasure.

back is by Dear Stella

paths and stiles, top completed, construction details

Paths and Stiles
top completed 2024
90 by 81 inches
block finishes 9 inches
90 blocks set 9 across and 10 down

See block construction HERE.

Blocks are rotated every other block so all seams nest.
I pieced in pairs--2-block units--made 45 pairs

4-block units

Then set aside 9 pairs and with remaining 36 pairs, made 18 units of 4, pressing seams consistently with the previous pressing.

Lay out two rows of the 4-block units and one row of the 2 block units, making sure keeping columns consistent with either horizontal oriented unit on top or vertical oriented unit on top.


Sew into to rows
Press center row east, top and bottom rows west

Sew rows together
Press final rows up or down
Everything nests!

My design and directions using a traditional block.
Use at your pleasure.

Backing by Dear Stella

teacups, block instruction

Teacups
block finishes 3 by 5 inches

While I was making my Scottie dogs I decided to use another pattern I had been sketching--teacups--with the red fabrics. They won't be in the same quilt, but it is efficient to work on cutting for both the same time.
LOTS of teacup patterns out there. Mine uses Doug Leko's Simple Folded corner ruler, mini size.

Cutting
Background white (I used Kona Snow)
Three 1 1/2 squares
One 1 by 1 1/2 inch rectangle
Two 1 inch squares

Red
One 3 1/2 by 4 1/2 inch rectangle
Two 1 inch squares
One 1 inch by 2 1/2 inch rectangle

(one of the three white 1 1/2 inch squares didn't make it into the photograph)

Bowl of the cup piecing
Place a 1 1/2 inch white square on the bottom two corners of the large red rectangle 
Use Doug Leko's tool to cut off corner; sew the seams, press to the white.

Ear of the cup piecing
Sew a red tiny square on each edge of the 1 1/2 inch white rectangle, press to the squares
Using Doug's ruler, place white tiny squares on the 2 1/2 inch rectangle, cut off corners and sew the seams.  Press to the squares.
I do these handles in batches.

Sew these two rectangles together, pressing towards the rectangle that will attach to the bowl.
Sew a 1 1/2 inch square at the bottom of the ear
Press to the square
Sew to the bowl of the teacup.

I put the hot tiny pieced sections under a ruler after I press them to keep them flat while they cool off

My design, use at your pleasure.
I need just a few more blocks.
I have a setting plan!

little red Scottie dogs, block construciton

 

Little red Scottie dogs
Pieced dog measures 6 by 5 inches finished.
With frame finishes 8 by 7 inches.
NOTE:I did NOT frame my blocks for my quilt this way.

I was not sure what I would do with these blocks so I put a frame on only one to get an idea of what the finished block looks like.

I needed a calming and distracting activity on election day, so I decided to put one of my many Scottie Dog sketches to fabric. I've played with different proportions and construction techniques for a few years. There are many variations of the pieced Scottie. Here are the directions for my method, using the Easy Angle or Bonnie Hunter's essential triangle tool and Doug Leko's simple folded corner tool--mini size. 

Cutting
White background (I used Kona Snow): 
One rectangle 2 1/2 inches by 5 1/2 inches
One square 2 1/2 inches
Two rectangles 1 1/2 by 2 1/2 inches
Two triangles cut from 1 1/2 inch strip using the Easy Angle or Bonnie Hunter's essential tool.
(((Frames: Cut two 1 1/2 by 5 1/2 inch rectangles, two 1 1/2 by 8 1/2 inch rectangles)))

Red scraps
One rectangle 2 1/2 by 4 1/2 inches
One 2 1/2 inch square
Four 1 1/2 inch squares
Three triangles cut from 1 1/2 inch strip using the Easy Angle or Bonnie Hunter's essential tool.

First piecing
Sew two red triangles to two white triangles, press one to the red and one to the white.
Sew two red squares onto ends of a white 1 1/2 by 2 1/2 inch rectangle
Press to the squares.

Time for the Doug Leko ruler! I love this ruler and use it often.
On the large white rectangle, place a small red square on the left side and larger square on the right. Use the angle to trim off the outer triangles and sew these seams. Press towards the triangles.

On a small rectangle place a small red square and use the tool to trim the left upper side.

With the small triangle square that is pressed to the red, use the tool to one side as shown. Scroll down to see how I did these in groups to be more efficient with these fiddly pieces.
There is only one in the block so it works well to do them in batches.
NOTE: all these pieces will be in a different orientation in the block.

I did these in groups to be more efficient with these fiddly pieces. There is only one in the block so it works well to do them in batches.
Sew a red half-square triangle to these pieces and  press away from the white.

Lay out all piece for block as shown.
Sew the small rectangle piece to the large rectangle keeping the ear and tail pointing up and upper face down. Press towards the ear.

Sew the fiddly piece onto the remaining pieced half square triangle--the opposing pressed seams nest nicely.
Press away from the fiddly piece.
Sew onto the white square. Press towards the white square.
Sew red body rectangle onto the legs. Press to the body.
Sew these two units together, press towards the body and legs.

Sew the top to the bottom, pressing towards the bottom.
Everything nests!
More process photos below.
My construction directions for a traditional block.
Use at your pleasure.

major units piece (back with pressing visible)

ready for final seam

final block pressing

14 dogs made before midnight