steps

Steps
Block finishes 6 by 9 inches
I plan to make fifteen rows, put into 5 row units, so 125 blocks, 10 variation 1 and 10 variation 2 blocks, to finish 81 by 90 inches.

Cutting
Solid: two 3 1/2 inch squares
Print: two 3 1/2 by 6 1/2 inch rectangles

Sew square to rectangle
Press toward rectangle.
Sew two units together to make block
Press to one side.

Variation units are needed to make the step layout work
Variation unit 1
Solid: one 3 1/2 inch square
Print: one 3 1/2 inch square, one 3 1/2 by 4 1/2 inch rectangle

Variation unit 2
Solid: one 3 1/2 inch square
Print: one 3 1/2 inch square

Assembly of rows:
Rotate blocks so seams will nest.

There will be three different rows sewn into five larger row units.
Row A: 9 blocks
Row B: Variation unit 1, 8 blocks, Variation unit 2
Row C: Variation unit 2, 8 blocks, Variation unit 1

Because the block-joining seams do not meet in the joining of rows, the way you press these seams does not affect nesting. I am pressing all mine to the right.
To avoid the tedious sewing of 15 long rows, I plan to sew into the 3-row units then assemble these units into the top.

handwork once more!

ladder

basket

4-in-the-corner

It has been since May I have been without binding work. I was happy to get these three quilts back from my quilter so handwork will again be part of my quilting time.

whirlygig, top completed

Whirlygig
80 by 96 inches
120 blocks set 10 by 12
Block finishes 8 inches

I love the lattice look all the whirlygigs form over the top.
My design, use at your pleasure.

Cutting
Solid: four 1 1/2 by 4 1/2 inch rectangles
Print: four 3 1/2 by 4 1/2 inch rectangles

Block directions here:
https://kleinmeisjequilts.blogspot.com/2019/09/whirlygig.html

Setting
Keep center seams of blocks horizontal
Sew blocks into units of 4, pressing all horizontal and block joining seams in one direction.

Sew together two 4-block units, flipping one so all seams nest

Lay out 5 of these 8-block units into three rows, pressing all the joining seams in one direction, reversing this direction for each row.
This leaves just two long seams to assemble the top and all seams will nest..

whirlygig (St Brigid cross)

Whirlygig (St Brigid Cross)
Block finishes 8 inches

Solid cut four rectangles 1 1/2 inches by 4 1/2 inches
Print cut four rectangles 3 1/2 inches by 4 1/2 inches

Sew solid to print, Press to the solid.
Sew into halves, pressing to vertical solid.
Sew into blocks.
I wait with pressing the final seam until setting the block.

My design, use at your pleasure.

Most of my directional prints spin around the block, fitting for a whirlygig. I did keep Alice and her print upright. Though, she did fall down the rabbit hole and spinning would have been fine for her too.
Planning 120 blocks set 10 by 12, to finish 80 by 96 inches.
Will piece it into 4 block units then 8 block units. I'll describe that in the setting post.
I anticipate the solids forming a lattice over the top.

Isn't that orange/black batik in the sample block lovely? I bought a remnant of it and it is nearly all used up.

cobbles, top completed

Cobbles
9 by 10 blocks, 90 blocks, finishes 81 by 90 inches

Block finishes 9 inches
Solid: Cut one 3 1/2 inch square
Print: Cut two 9 1/2 by 3 1/2 inch rectangles, two 3 1/2 inch squares

Block pressing: away from center square

Assembly
Rows: alternate horizontal and vertical seamed blocks so no internal seams to match. Start every other row with a horizontal seamed block.
Row pressing: press towards vertical seamed blocks.
All blocks will nest.

My design, use at your pleasure.

I chose to keep my directional fabrics directional so the solid seams to hover over a complete print.
I am working on the Whirlygig blocks now where I let everything go every-which-way, appropriate for a whirlygig! (Spellcheck does not like my spelling for whirlygig but I do.)
I am making a similar one to cobbles, bullseye, which has a smaller center square.
Lots in the production line at different stages!